I'm in love

I have a new reason for living. Garlic fries at Edzo's. This is how strongly I feel: I would take a hollow-tipped bullet in my left eye socket for my kid, but he can kiss my mommy ass if he thinks he's getting any of my garlic fries.

I was there last Saturday, waiting in line with the rest of Evanston. It wasn't a Hot Doug's type of ritualistic experience, where you need to block out five hours, 20 minutes of which is for the actual eating. At most, it was 30 minutes from end of line to burger in hand.

Edzo's opened a few months ago in the spot that used to be Pita Pete's. I had a hate/love relationship with Pete's, but with Edzo's, it's definitely a groovy kind of love. The guy who runs the place - I'm guessing Ed to his parents - gets burgers. He gets the bun (soft yet supportive, and egg-glazed), he gets the toppings (everything includes pickles, onions, ketchup and mustard; stuff like sauteed mushrooms, a fried egg or giardiniera are extra), and he especially gets the meat, which is perfectly juicy and tasty, with just the right fat content and thickness for a fast food burger. They grind it in house everyday, and even offer an organic blend. If we all pay a mere two bucks extra for the good meat, we just might save the world.

Edzo's also offers 8 ounce charburgers, hot dogs in a variety of dress, a few appropriate sandwiches, and a tantalizing array of fries. I was intrigued by the Taylor Street version (Italian beef gravy and sweet and hot peppers), but the garlic ones called to me in a voice oddly reminiscent of a mellower Russell Crowe. The garlic is substantial yet sweet with no burning edge. It lives in a parsley butter that is judiciously ladled on, leaving nothing but crisp. I loved the burger, but I'll never forget the fries.

As for the milkshakes, they're real, too, and more than I could handle with a meal, but a perfect afternoon pick-me-up after a 12 mile run and 45 minute weight lifting session with Mr. T.

Ed didn't change the place much. The paint job looks like it's from 1974, as does the brand new 70's style supergraphic with Bozo type. He also didn't change the soda fountain - my only gripe - because Pepsi with burgers this good is a crime.